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A calming bedtime story for adults

The Slow Train Through Moravia

The lamp at your seat is brass with a green glass shade, and it throws a circle of warm light onto the small folding table, onto the edge of your book, onto the lap of your coat where your hand rests. Outside the window the dark is not absolute. A pale band still holds along the horizon, and against it the shapes of low hills pass, and the black spires of poplars, and now and then the single yellow window of a farmhouse far out in a field. The carriage rocks on its springs, a long soft sway, and under that a steadier rhythm, the wheels finding the joins in the rail.

The seats are of a deep red velveteen worn smooth at the headrests and along the front of the cushion, where knees have pressed for years. The wood of the compartment is dark, varnished many times, and the varnish has gone to honey in the places the lamp reaches. A luggage rack runs above the window, webbed with a cord that sags a little in the middle. On the rack sits a canvas bag, and beside it a folded wool coat, and a paper parcel tied with string. The heating pipe along the floor ticks now and then as metal stretches against metal. You slip your shoes off and rest your feet on the opposite seat, where nobody is sitting, and the cushion there is cool through your socks and then slowly warms.

The train takes a long curve, and the line of the carriages ahead comes briefly into view, their lit windows laid out along the track like a string of amber beads, bending away. Then the curve finishes and the windows are only your own again, the reflection of your lamp hanging doubled in the glass, and behind that reflection the fields. A village slides past without stopping. You see a station sign too quickly to read, a platform of pale concrete, a bench, a chestnut tree with most of its leaves down. A man in a dark jacket stands at the end of the platform with his hands in his pockets, watching the train go. His face is turned toward it but he is not looking at any window in particular. Then he is behind you, and then the village is behind you, and the fields come back.

From somewhere two cars up a voice carries, low and unhurried, humming. It is the guard, you think, walking the corridor with his lamp and his ticket punch, humming to himself between compartments. The tune is old, one of those melodies that moves in small steps and turns back on itself, the kind of thing sung to children or sung at work. You cannot place the language of the few words that surface between the humming. The consonants are soft, the vowels long. The sound comes closer for a little while, passing through one carriage, and then recedes again, and you can hear the door between cars closing with its double click, and then only the wheels. A conversation is going on somewhere in the next compartment, murmured, a man and a woman, the words indistinct through the wood. They laugh once, quietly, and then speak again in the same low register, and then fall silent for a long while.

You lay your palm flat on the window. The glass is cold, so cold it seems to draw the warmth out of the skin by a measurable degree, and you leave your hand there until the cold has crept to the wrist, and then you take it away, and the print of your palm hangs for a moment on the dark glass and fades. The cord of the luggage rack, when you touch it, is stiff and slightly greasy with age. The edge of the folding table is worn to a smoothness that feels almost soft, the varnish gone in a pale crescent where cups have sat and been pushed and sat again. On the sill beneath the window there is a groove the width of a thumb, meant perhaps for a bottle, and in the groove a small amount of dust has gathered, and against the dust the pad of your finger leaves a clear shining line.

The compartment holds a mixed air of old wool, of coal not recently but not long ago burned somewhere on this line, of the faint iron of the heating pipe, of the paper of timetables yellowing in a pocket by the door. When the guard passed, a thinner scent came through with him, the cold of the corridor and beyond that the colder cold of the vestibule between carriages, where a window is cracked open and the night reaches in. Now that he has gone the compartment settles back into its own warmer weather. There is tea somewhere on the train, you think, because once when the door opened you caught the smell of it, black tea steeping a long time in a metal pot, and a trace of lemon. You do not get up to find it. The thought of it is enough, held near.

The wheels run on, and the sound of them makes patterns that your ear arranges and then lets go. Two long, one short. Three even. A slow crescendo as the train crosses a bridge, the rails ringing differently over the span, a hollowness beneath, and then the solid earth again and the rhythm returning to what it was. Somewhere far off a dog barks, twice, and the sound reaches you thinned by distance and by glass. A level crossing goes by, its bell ringing, the red lights flashing in sequence across the window and gone. An owl, perhaps, crosses the edge of a field, a paler shape against the plowed dark, and is lost before you are sure of it. The humming from up the train begins again, further away this time, only a few notes lifting over the wheels and then under them.

The moon comes out from behind a long bank of cloud and lays a grey light over everything the lamps of villages do not reach. You can see, now, the shapes of the fields more clearly, the stubble of some late crop, the dark lines of hedges, a pond catching the moon for an instant before the angle changes and it goes out. A church stands on a low rise with its tower squared against the sky, and the weathervane on top shifts a fraction as the train passes, or perhaps does not, and is behind you before you can be certain. The land here is gentle. It rises and falls in long slow waves, and the train moves across it at a pace that lets each rise arrive and pass in its own time, without hurry, without any sense that anywhere is being left behind.

Inside, under the lamp, the book on your table has not been opened for some while. A finger marks a page you are not reading. The pages are of a thick cream paper, slightly rough, and the type is set generously, with wide margins, and the margins are the part you keep looking at, the pale quiet borders of the page. The green glass of the lampshade has a small chip along its lower edge, and through the chip the filament shows as a thread of brighter gold. The lamp gives off a warmth you can feel on the side of your face nearest to it, a mild warmth, steady. Your coat across your lap is heavy and takes the shape of your legs beneath it. Your breath has slowed without your asking it to, and the rise and fall of the coat is slight and even.

The guard passes again in the corridor beyond the compartment door, and the glass of the door carries his shape briefly, a dark figure with a lamp, and then he is past. The humming goes with him. A station approaches, slowly, its lights appearing first as a glow against the sky and then resolving into separate lamps along a platform, pale and spaced widely. The train slows. A sign slides into view and halts, white letters on a blue ground, a name of two syllables that you do not need to keep. The platform is empty except for a trolley with a folded tarpaulin on it and a cat sitting very still beside one of its wheels. The cat watches the train without moving its head. After a minute that feels like several, the train eases forward again, and the platform slides away, and the cat is gone, and the sign is gone, and the fields return.

The lamp dims, just slightly, as the train draws power for the climb out of the valley, and the green of the shade deepens for a moment toward a darker green, and then the light steadies. The wheels settle into their long rhythm. The reflection in the window has softened, the edges of things blurring against the glass, the book's pale page a smudge of cream, your own face half-there and half-not. Beyond the reflection the land goes on passing, field after field, a farmhouse with one window lit, a hedge, a stand of birch showing white in the moon, a stream running under a low stone bridge with a gleam along its surface, and then only the dark, and the slow sway, and the wheels finding the joins in the rail, and finding them, and finding them

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